The last time I moved to Spain, I hadn’t intended to stay long. Six months, nine months… I wasn’t certain, but it was never my intention to remain for three and a half years. My first year away, it seemed a good idea to take advantage of being in Europe to spend my holidays in Eastern Europe. I chose Prague for Christmas and Budapest for New Year. Though I’ve visited Prague only once, it has become my favourite European capital with its classic old world charm and stunning architecture. The prices don’t hurt either, as Prague is an inexpensive place to visit. I strolled through Christmas market after Christmas market and spent my nights on a riverboat hotel, which in itself was a great novelty.
First Stop: Kutná Hora
Admittedly, on my first day in Prague, I didn’t actually stay in Prague. I got on the train to Kutná Hora, a city of about 20,000 people. What’s the attraction that brings tourists from around the world to this tiny Czech city? It’s the Sedlec ossuary, also known as the bone chapel. A short walk from the train station is an unassuming church, beneath which you will find the bones of 40-70 thousand people used to create dramatic chandeliers and decorate the subterranean chapel. It is one of the most visited tourist attractions in the Czech Republic, and as an osteoarchaeologist, I wasn’t about to miss out.
During the construction of the gothic church in the early 15th century, remains of those who had died of the plague and during the Hussite Wars were exhumed and a monk stacked the remains inside the ossuary. In 1870, a woodcarver was given the task of arranging the bones, and he brought an artistic vision to his task, even signing his name using the bones of children.
Kutná Hora is worth a visit even if the macabre isn’t your thing. The city is small and very walkable, and has the quaint charm of a sleepy village. For lunch, I stopped at a restaurant not far from the bone chapel and was immediately given a Czech menu, which I had to ask to exchange for one in English. It was the first, but not the last time I was taken for a local. Coming from Spain, where everyone knows I’m a foreigner before I even open my mouth, it was not an unpleasant surprise. Sometimes it’s nice to blend into the crowd.
Festive Prague: Christmas Markets at Every Turn
Main attractions in European cities during the winter holidays are the plethora of Christmas markets with giant trees and the aroma of spices lingering in the air. There were several markets at various locations all over the city when I was in Prague, the one at the main square being the largest and busiest. I can’t say the market was the best European Christmas market I’ve seen, but it certainly wasn’t the worst either (that title is held by no other than Madrid). There’s a lot of repetition of goods and foods, but if you look, you can find something special. I took home a few pairs of handmade earrings, one with a miniature scene of Prague.
The food offerings on the square lure people back again and again. There’s no shortage of sweet and savoury to try. Buyer beware, however, since the food at the market is far more expensive than the same food sold just off the square. One of the most popular treats available is the trdelník, a spit cake of grilled dough topped with a cinnamon and walnut mix. They can be eaten plain or filled with ice cream. Though it sounds amazing, and I would have to give it a second chance before I fully make up my mind, the sweet, dubbed a chimney cake in English, didn’t live up to my expectations. Disappointed, I moved on and ate a Bavarian crown, a donut-like fried dough concoction.
Though there is lots to whet the appetite as you make your way around the market, including medovina (mead), the real star is the square itself, with stunning buildings in pastels trimmed by ornate mouldings. It made me wish I had visited another time of year to truly appreciate the beauty without the hindrance of the market. In the square, there’s even the world’s oldest operating astronomical clock, dating to 1410. I was, however, glad to see the dazzling Christmas lights in the evening, a warm glow to ease the chill of the winter air. I’ll just have to plan another trip.
Not just for Christmas
Whatever time of year you visit Prague, there’s plenty to see and do. Some travellers have claimed that Prague is overrated, but I couldn’t disagree more. Even if you did nothing but walk around the historical district of the city, I think you couldn’t help but succumb to the wealth of beauty at every turn.
The Charles Bridge
A classic image of Prague is that of the medieval stone Charles Bridge, the construction of which began in the 14th century under the rule of Charles IV. Tourists flow across the bridge during the day, as vendors and street musicians set up to attract their attention. If you reach the bridge by 9am, you may get to see the elaborate statues without the hoardes.
The Petrin Lookout Tower
The Petrin tower was constructed in 1891 as an observation and transmission tower. Its appearance is something akin to the Eiffel Tower. Though in itself not the most exciting attraction, it provides spectacular views over the city, and for this reason I would recommend it to anyone. If time is an issue, the views from Prague Castle are also great, but the tower provides a distinct vantage point from which to enjoy the red rooftops.
Prague Castle
The day I visited Prague Castle I rose early, hoping to avoid long lineups. It was certainly worth the effort, since, when I left the castle, there was a long line of people waiting to get inside. I climbed the never-ending stairs up to the complex. Out of breath at the top, I paused to look back over the city. A police officer approached me, speaking rapidly in Czech, his manner friendly. I had no hope of understanding a single word, my best guess being that he was wondering what I was doing climbing all those stairs at that hour. I gave him my best apologetic look and told him in English that I didn’t speak any Czech. He smiled and waved me on my way to the castle entrance. Yet another tourist.
The Prague castle is really a walled complex made up of various buildings, including St. Vitus Cathedral. Once the seat of power for the kings of Bohemia, it is now a tourist attraction and the office of the President of the Czech Republic. It was founded in the 9th century, and holds the record for the largest ancient castle in the world. A curiosity of the complex is the so-called Golden Lane. Named for the goldsmiths who lived in the tiny dwellings built within the castle walls in the 16th century, the homes were occupied until the end of WWII. A fortune teller who lived here predicted the fall of the Third Reich and was arrested by the German secret police. She died while being interrogated. In fact, Franz Kafka lived in No. 22 for a year. Click here for more information about Golden Lane and the Prague Castle.
It started to rain while I was still exploring the castle grounds, and by the time I left it was really pouring down. I must admit I slipped into a Starbucks to escape from the wet, chill air, and made an amazing discovery. With the baked goods was a treat I didn’t recognize, and thinking it must be Czech, I ordered one to try. What I discovered was the honey nugget – a twist on the traditional honey cake called Medovik. Truly delicious! I bought several boxes from the grocery store to take home to Spain (they disappeared quite quickly). I determined that, although the original recipe is fabulous, the lemon version is even better! If you are curious about the honey nuggets, you can see the Marlenka Canada Facebook page.
The Jewish Quarter
On my last day in Prague, I did a self-guided tour of the Jewish Quarter, visiting many synagogues and cemeteries in the old town. Some of the graveyards were very old, the tombstones like jagged teeth, jutting up every which way out of the earth. It was really quite breathtaking, and the quiet after the bustle of the market was refreshing. A moment for quiet reflection. Of course, the Jewish community in Prague suffered the same tragic fate as that of other European Jews. See my post about Poland. The holocaust took a horrific toll. It almost seems you can feel it: the air is heavier, an intangible weight reminding visitors of those that lost their lives. If you visit the Pinkas Synagogue, you are confronted by the names of 77,297 victims from Bohemia and Moravia, painstakingly inscribed on the walls of the synagogue. Without visiting, one cannot truly imagine what more than 77 thousand names look like, each one written in tiny letters. Covering the expanse of white walls, a silent memorial. Each name a life lost to hatred. Hard to fathom today, such hatred continues to exist despite the lessons of history.
Take me Back
I would love to return to Prague and even venture farther afield in the Czech Republic to see some of the less-visited cities. The charm here is unquestionable, like something out of a fairy tale. Thanks for following along on my blog. I hope you have wonderful holidays wherever you might find yourself, and that we will find ourselves travelling once more in 2021! Make sure to put Prague on your list.
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I like your latest post about Praque. So interesting and great photos.
Thanks!