Sadly, we won’t be spending Christmas in Arizona this year as we usually do, but that doesn’t mean I can’t reminisce about my 2019 birthday trip to Northern Arizona. I spent my actual birthday back in Spain at a spa in Cantabria, but before leaving Arizona, my parents gifted me something I had been requesting for years: a trip to the Grand Canyon. I can’t say exactly how many times I’ve visited Arizona, but I had never seen the Grand Canyon until last year. I decided that if we were driving north, we might as well see the sights around Page, including Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Canyon, and Lake Powell. It was well worth the six hour drive from Tucson.
Antelope Canyon
We spent a day driving leisurely from Tucson to Page, near the border with Utah. Page is the perfect jumping off point for various attractions in the Navajo Nation, and has all necessary facilities for a holiday. Antelope Canyon had been on my bucket list. It’s popularity increased thanks to Instagram, but you often see professional photographs of the canyon hanging on gallery walls. I recommend booking in advance, as we did, but I don’t believe our tour, in mid-January, was sold out. Winter was a great time to visit for exactly this reason: the crowds were minimal and the weather, though crisp, wasn’t unbearable for Canadian prairie dwellers. There are two canyons to visit: Lower Antelope Canyon and Upper Antelope Canyon. Both are spectacular, but if you have to choose one because of budget or time constraints, I would not hesitate to say that Lower Antelope Canyon was my preference. For anyone with limited mobility, however, Upper Antelope Canyon is the way to go since Lower has a lot of stairs and narrow points.
Upper Antelope Canyon
Antelope Canyon is a slot canyon, but Upper and Lower have distinct shapes. Upper Antelope Canyon is wide at the base and narrow at the top, while Lower is wide at the top and narrow at the base. Booking a guided tour is the only option. It isn’t much of a tour, however, in terms of providing information, but it serves to keep the group together and the guide acts as photographer for tourists from all over the world. We chose Upper Antelope Canyon for our first morning. From the parking lot to the canyon, we rode in the bed of a truck, and this was the coldest part of the experience, as we were exposed to the winter wind over open desert. Once you enter the canyon, you forget about the outside world, stepping into the ambient glow between the canyon’s carved walls. The visit lasts only about an hour, but you have the chance to take plenty of photographs and admire the power of nature to create these incredible formations. I struggled with my camera and opted for my cell phone. Also, I found that my photographs from Lower Antelope Canyon were much better in terms of lighting than those in Upper Antelope Canyon.
(Note that light beams seen in many photographs of Antelope Canyon are visible only during certain months – winter not included. However, the experience was memorable despite there being no light beams entering the canyon. Fewer visitors vs. light beams. It’s a trade-off.)
Lower Antelope Canyon
The next morning, we visited Lower Antelope Canyon, which, being privately owned, is a separate operation. Our guide was a lot more vibrant and animated here and the facilities were a bit more developed, with a large gift store and indoor washrooms. That certainly didn’t sway me, though, as Lower Antelope Canyon didn’t need any bells and whistles to make it spectacular. This tour was a bit more fun, as well, since there were a few descents and ascents using stairs and ladders. In fact, you can’t even see the lower canyon before descending from the surface level. This canyon was also much easier to photograph with more light entering from above. I would absolutely visit Antelope Canyon again, but I would also love to be a bit more adventurous and seek out the slot canyons off the beaten path, with fewer people and no guided tours. The price tag for Antelope Canyon is quite steep at about $60 US per person.
Horseshoe Bend
Also in the Navajo Nation, Horseshoe Bend is another attraction that has gained world-wide attention thanks to Instagram. We actually ended up visiting twice, once in the morning after our Upper Antelope Canyon tour and once at sunset to see the different colours play out over the desert landscape. This is just one place where the Colorado River turns back on itself in an impressive curve far below the plateau above. Though it isn’t the only bend in the river, this one is easily accessible from Page. While we were there, some construction work was going on in the parking lot, and it seemed the Navajo Nation was preparing for the influx of visitors to this photogenic location. Otherwise, it was mostly untouched landscape, but for a few barriers to prevent selfie-takers from falling. Sadly, people lose their lives each year at Horseshoe Bend and the Grand Canyon by straying too close to the edge. There is really no need for it, as you can get great photographs without risking your life. At the time, there was no charge to visit Horseshoe Bend.
Lake Powell
Prior to visiting Page, I had never heard of Lake Powell. Yet, the almost extraterrestrial landscape was a delightful surprise. Lake Powell extends over the border between Arizona and Utah, and we crossed the border to access the west entrance. I would love to go back and explore more of the lake (there are yacht and house-boat rentals for vacationers, but in January things were pretty quiet!). The swimming beach was completely deserted, with not another soul around thanks to chilly water and air temperatures. A summer hotspot, Lake Powell is eerily silent in the winter despite the major tourist draws nearby. Apparently I wasn’t the only person who had never heard of Lake Powell. Put this stunning location on your must-see list. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed!
Warning: Do Not Exit the Vehicle on Road Trips with your Parents
The drive from Page to the Grand Canyon would have been largely uneventful. We stopped at roadside attractions, gift shops, and the Little Colorado River Gorge. It was at Antelope Pass (unrelated to Antelope Canyon) that we had a bit of a mishap. Antelope Pass is a mountain pass where the road is essentially the base of a canyon. On approaching Antelope Pass, we noticed the clouds had completely obscured the entrance and we pulled onto the wide shoulder to take some photos. I turned around to take pictures in the opposite direction and when I turned back, my parents and the car were gone. I was alone at the side of the road. Apparently, they had not noticed my absence and had gone on their merry way. I had little choice but to wait until they realized their error and returned to pick me up. This wasn’t the first time I was left at the side of the road, but it was the first time it wasn’t intentional.
The Grand Canyon
We arrived at the Grand Canyon in the late afternoon, admiring the rugged vistas over the Colorado River. We toured the South Rim, stopping at each viewpoint to take photos. Because of the 2019 government shutdown (remember that?), services were minimal, but there weren’t many people at that time, either. The winter weather also helped to keep people away, with icy paths and cold winds. We were not deterred, however, and spent several days exploring, using Tusayan, south of the park, as a base. We didn’t do any hiking because of time restrictions and it was a bit treacherous on some paths with the melt-freeze cycles, but it was a great time to visit.
A Special Visit to El Tovar
The Grand Canyon was established as a National Park in 1919. Fortunately, we managed to time our visit for its centennial. What made our visit even more special was the fact that 99 years before, my great-grandparents had honeymooned at the Grand Canyon (and many other places), staying at El Tovar hotel. They were there in January, as well, hiking down into the canyon (my great-grandmother in a long skirt, no doubt). We decided to celebrate their 99th wedding anniversary and my birthday by having lunch at El Tovar. It was great fun and the dessert was excellent!
Sunsets and Sunrises
The reality of the Grand Canyon is that most people arrive, take a photograph, and then leave. Yet, sunrise and sunset are really musts here as you watch the light change, the colours shift before your eyes, sometimes brighter and sometimes more muted. There’s no need for early mornings or late nights, since the good thing about a winter visit is that sunrise is late and sunset is early. You just need to become proficient at taking photographs with your mitts on (impossible with a camera phone I’ve learned, unless you have special mitts). Our visit was restricted to the South Rim, but the Grand Canyon is extensive and it would take a lifetime to explore it fully. The South Rim is the most visited part of the Grand Canyon, being close to Phoenix and open all year round. It’s a great starting point for visiting Northern Arizona, but as you can see, the natural beauty of the American Southwest is infinite!
Love this story and some fun things about travelling with your parents! 😊
Thanks!!