I travelled to Lisbon in February 2019 with my partner, Iván. We had purchased a flight and hotel package from Bilbao on a whim, finding a great deal on return flights and a four star hotel in the historic Chiado neighbourhood. He had never been to Lisbon, and I hadn’t visited in nearly a decade. Indeed, I had seen Lisbon at Christmas time, but I found the city transformed from a relatively quiet, low-key capital into a teeming tourist hub. Despite this metamorphosis, I would still recommend Lisbon to travellers who enjoy the bustle of a lively city. Here are some tips to enjoy Lisbon over a long weekend.
1. Catch a Sunset along the Tagus
Sometimes the best things in life are free, and the sunset in Lisbon was no exception. The Tagus is a broad river that leads you to the Atlantic in one direction and an estuary in the other. It doesn’t really feel like a river though, as you watch sailboats drift by, gracefully skimming across the waves. Though my photographs fail to provide evidence, I live with the memory of glorious sunsets along the riverbanks during our few days in Lisbon. Two excellent spots to watch the sun sink into the horizon are at the Torre de Belém, a 16th century point of embarkation for Portuguese explorers, and just beyond the Arco da Rua Augusta, a triumphal arch constructed to celebrate the city’s rebirth after the 1755 earthquake. Depending where you find yourself near dusk, these are both ideal locations to stroll along the banks of the Tagus, taking in the aroma of salt on the breeze, and appreciating the vibrant display of colours over the deep hues of the water in the evening.
2. Enjoy the Views Over the City
Lisbon is anything but flat, which means fabulous views over the city centre, and a lot of walking up and down hill. There are many places to enjoy these panoramic vistas of Lisbon’s red rooftops, but three in particular stood out for me. The first is beside the Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Monte (Our Lady of the Mountain). The church itself has extensive blue and white tile work depicting religious scenes. Next to it is a park offering views of the castle and city as far as the eye can see. The next viewpoint is at the castle itself, Castelo de S. Jorge (St. George). You do have to pay to enter the castle, but this allows you to explore the grounds and have a coffee with peacocks for company. The panorama from the castle gives you a better perspective from which to see the 25th of April Bridge and the Christ the King Monument at the sanctuary across the Tagus.
The final viewpoint is at Miradouro de Santa Luzia, in the Alfama neighbourhood (this is a cool neighbourhood to visit). Here, buskers liven the atmosphere as you savour spectacular views of baroque St. Stephen’s Church.
3. Sintra is a Must, but Plan Carefully
Sintra is a town outside Lisbon, but it is worth the extra effort. It was once the playground of the wealthy and royal. There are several palaces here and even a Moorish castle. When I visited during the holidays in 2009, my dad and I had a rental car so we drove directly into the town and up to the Pena Palace without a problem. Sintra is now so popular it is congested and most methods of getting to the village are tricky. Iván and I decided to take the train, not realizing we really needed to buy tickets in advance. On a Sunday morning, the ticket booths were closed and the lines to pay at automatic kiosks were horrendous. We had missed several trains by the time we purchased our tickets and when we did arrive in Sintra, it felt as though a herd of cattle had been let loose from the train. People did manage to disperse once inside the village. I have also heard that some tour companies have stopped offering Sintra on their itineraries because of the difficulties getting to, and from, the village. Public transportation is fine, but aim to purchase tickets in advance so you don’t have to stand in line. We also purchased our tickets for the Pena Palace at a small kiosk in the village so we didn’t have to stand in line once we got there. We had planned to visit the beach town of Cascais the same day, but the train fiasco made it impossible.
After sampling gijinha (liqueur made from ginja berries) and pastéis de nata (custard tart) liqueur in the village, and eating at an overcrowded café, we rode the bus up the mountain to the Palacio Nacional da Pena – Pena Palace, the Romanticist-style palace built in the 19th century. The UNESCO World Heritage site is truly unique in its colours and design. Sadly, when we visited, it was so misty, we could hardly see some parts of the palace. By the time we left it had started to rain, thus an afternoon at the beach might not have been a great idea after all.
4. Try Fado in a Crowded Bar
Fado is a style of music deeply woven into the fabric of Portuguese culture and recognized by UNESCO as part of the Intagible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. When my dad and I visited Lisbon, all the fado venues were closed for Christmas and we unable to experience this part of Portuguese culture. When Iván and I went, I knew we needed to discover Fado. There are many restaurants where you can have a meal while being treated to a Fado concert. This felt overly touristy and we wanted a more authentic experience – as authentic as an experience can be in a city jam-packed with tourists. We opted for Tasca do Chico, a tiny bar in the Bairro Alto neighbourhood well-known for putting up-and-coming Fado artists centre-stage. Despite our early arrival, there was nowhere to sit. Ultimately, it was a good thing since we got a far better view standing. We drank our wine in the shadows, pressed firmly against the other patrons. The lament of the Portuguese guitar and the haunting vocal melody enveloped everyone in a mystical trance.
5. Some Things Just Aren't Worth It
When you travel, you make mistakes. These are a couple of mine. Firstly, the Time Out Market. I really like the idea of rescuing failing traditional markets by giving them new life through trendy, upscale “food courts”. However, in many cities, their popularity has been their downfall. In Madrid you can hardly move through Mercado San Miguel. In Lisbon, we searched in vain for a place to sit after ordering. In the end, I sat, and Iván stood. It was crowded and uncomfortable, and to make matters worse, the food we ordered looked amazing, but wasn’t good at all. Overall, the market was a huge disappointment in every way. Even the lines for the washroom were long. I have also been to the Time Out Market in Brooklyn, NY, and although the line for the washrooms was even longer, the actual food service area was not as crowded.
We had limited time in Belém neighbourhood; it has several attractions from which to choose. I had visited the Jerónimos Monastery, a late-gothic monastery and final resting place of Vasco de Gama, with my dad in 2009. I thought it would be interesting to visit the Torre de Belém on the 2019 trip, instead. It was really just a waste of time and money. The Torre de Belém is lovely on the outside, but I would suggest bypassing the interior altogether. It really wasn’t worth the effort and the monastery is much more interesting. Lesson learned.
Note: The tram to get to the this area was packed with tourists and locals alike. Unfortunately, tourism has caused problems for locals as they navigate their own city.
6. Walk the Funicular Routes
Trams and funiculars are just part of the Lisbon landscape. There are a couple of popular funiculars, that you can of course ride, but I suggest walking their path for great photo opportunities and to take in the graffiti and street art that populate their thoroughfares. One of these funiculars is called Ascensor da Glória and it will take you up into the Bairro Alto, which is a great neighbourhood for less-touristy bars and restaurants. There is a lot of graffiti on this street and even an outdoor art gallery. If you ride the funicular, you might miss it!
Another well-known funicular is the Elevador da Bica. This one is very popular with Instagrammers as the angles to shoot the cable car are infinite. If you have a public transport pass, you can ride the funicular with it, but if not, as you can see from the photo above, the price is nearly four euros for a short journey. Again, if you walk the line, you have more time to appreciate the views as you ascend (or descend).
Though Lisbon had changed a lot between my 2009 and 2019 visits, I still enjoyed exploring the city, returning to some places and seeing some new ones as well. Hope you find these tips useful once international travel is possible again!
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