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A Day in Bosnia: The Trip that Almost Didn’t Happen

On a 10 day trip to Croatia in 2018, Iván and I had planned to take a day trip from our base in Dubrovnik to the historic centre of Mostar in Bosnia and  Herzegovina. Prior to going to Bosnia, we had had an uneventful day trip to Montenegro and were quite confident that there would be no trouble crossing the border. With an estimated driving time of just over two hours between Dubrovnik and Mostar, we thought we would also be able to sneak in a visit to the Kravice waterfalls on our way home despite the early sunsets of November. As we set off for the day, we had no way of knowing what Google Maps had in store for us…

The Time Google Maps Failed Us Miserably

Breathing a sigh of relief when we finally arrived in Mostar.

We first realized we were going to have a problem when we arrived at the border crossing between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. We pulled up, passports in hand, with all the optimism of two people setting off on an adventure in a foreign land. The border guards quickly crushed our enthusiasm, telling us this border crossing was for local people only. We weren’t quite ready to give up as we drove away, trying to get Google Maps to give us an alternate route. It refused. As we were about to return to the main highway we saw some police officers and stopped to ask directions. They were friendly and pointed us in the direction of another border crossing. Excellent, our detour had been but a minor inconvenience. We pulled up to the next border crossing, passports in hand, with only slightly more apprehension than at the previous stop. The border guard informed us that we could not cross there because it was for locals only. At this point, had anyone looked closely, they might have seen the smoke streaming out of my nose. Where exactly were we allowed to cross the border? I asked the guard if he would put the correct crossing into our Google Maps. This was, of course, a mistake. 

Believing we were finally on the right track, we followed Google Maps along winding roads wide enough only for one car. The more twists and turns we took on the narrow Croatian backroads, the more suspicious I became. Where exactly were we going? What was the red dot on the map that we were slowly approaching? We realized our mistake when it was already too late. There was no going back. The red dot on the map? It was nothing. Truly, it was just a spot on a tiny road, high on a hill, surrounded by farms. Essentially, it was a dead end in the middle of nowhere. Let me tell you, the middle of nowhere in another country is far more disconcerting than the middle of nowhere at home. 

Finally on the Right Track to Mostar

Colourful goods on the streets of Mostar.

Just as I had given up hope of ever reaching Bosnia, we somehow figured out where the international border crossing was located. We were allowed to pass without a problem. Finally, we were across the border and on our way to Mostar. What we had not expected was how underdeveloped Bosnia would be. The road we took to Mostar? Unpaved, twisting, and not quite wide enough for two cars to meet one another without pulling onto the shoulder (if you could call it that). You could say that the road to Mostar is now paved with my anxiety, as I silently hoped that we would arrive in one piece, perhaps more for the sake of the rental car than for my own. 

Mostar's magnificent old town.

By some small miracle, we and the rental car arrived unscathed in Mostar. Though Mostar is Bosnia and Herzegovina’s 5th largest city, the old town has the feel of a village, both charming and beautiful. Occupying both sides of the emerald waters of the Neretva River, Mostar’s old town is welcoming, the medieval buildings a palette of pinks, yellows, and purples, while the minarets punctuate the landscape. We knew we would not have much time in the city because of our many detours, but we still had the opportunity to enjoy a stroll along the cobblestone streets. 

Stari Most

The rebuilt Stari Most.

The old town’s main attraction is the Stari Most, meaning old bridge. The original construction was an Ottoman bridge dating to the 16th century, and though it had been in use for over 400 years, it could not withstand the pressures of modern warfare. In 1993, during the Bosnian War, it was destroyed. Rebuilt, it was opened once more to the public in 2004. As Yugoslavia was breaking apart, this multicultural society once mainly composed of Muslim Bosniaks, Orthodox Serbs, and Catholic Croats experienced the horrors of war, genocide, and ethnic cleansing. Mostar has a museum of war and genocide victims, but unfortunately, we did not have the time to visit. On a warm, sunny day in early November, it was hard to imagine this serene environment as a place that had suffered so much death and destruction not so long ago. 

Graffiti marks the shells of buildings destroyed during the war.

We had read that the Stari Most was popular amongst bridge divers, and as two young men in swimming gear climbed beyond the bridge’s railings, we thought we might be in for a show. We waited around in vain for the young men to jump off the bridge. Perhaps they were waiting for a larger audience. 

The best place to photograph the Stari Most is from the next bridge.

Enough Meat for a Medieval Feast

Meat platter for two... or more.

Once across the old bridge, we decided it was time for lunch. Grills abound and we sat down on one of the many terraces. Probably Iván’s favourite moment of the day was when we ordered a meat platter for two. There was a lot of meat, but it was delicious and the mustard was the best I’ve ever had. The platter cost about 10 euros and was more than enough. The baklava we had for dessert was less than stellar, however. The washrooms? Well, there was a Turkish toilet in a shack out behind the restaurant. 

Just a Few Pomegranates

Some beautiful stelae with Arabic script.

As we wandered through the old town after lunch, we began to notice the ubiquitous pomegranates. Pomegranates are the symbol of Bosnia and Herzegovina and they abound in Mostar. We passed by some burial stelae with beautiful Arabic script and topped with pomegranates. Much as you might find in the city of Granada in Spain, ornamental pomegranates could be found in every shop. There were even people selling fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice on the street at, we couldn’t fail to notice, a much better price than in Dubrovnik. 

The souvenir shops of Mostar.

A Quick Stop at Kravice Waterfalls

Kravice waterfalls.

As we left Mostar, we decided it would be a shame not to stop at Kravice waterfalls, despite knowing that our return journey to Croatia would take place after dark. We arrived at the waterfalls prior to sunset and purchased our entry passes. The young man at the booth asked us where we were from. We told him Bilbao, expecting he would not have heard of the city. Well, soccer must be the sport that unites the world because his eyes lit up and he told us he knew of Athletic Club Bilbao, our local first division team. (Our boat guide in Montenegro also informed us of his knowledge of Athletic Club Bilbao). The soccer world is indeed a small one. 

In the warmer months, the pool beneath the waterfalls is used for swimming.

There were hardly any other people at the waterfalls, though from pictures we could see it was a popular swimming hole during the summer months. The water level was extremely high, and the waterfalls were small in scale, but the setting was quite striking and peaceful as sunset approached. As the sun sank lower on the horizon, we decided it was time to leave, stopping once more well above the falls to catch the sun as it disappeared from view. 

Sunset over Kravice waterfalls.

The Road Home

If the road to Mostar was paved with my anxiety, the road home was paved with sheer terror. The same winding, narrow road taken to Mostar was twice as scary after dark. To make matters worse, we thought we had retraced our route, only to find that Google Maps took us once more to a locals-only border crossing. Disappointment gave way to relief when, soon after, we found our way to the international crossing. Arriving back in Dubrovnik safely, we decided the journey had been worth the trouble, but we now knew better than to blindly place our faith in Google Maps.  

The tree in the foreground has those iconic pomegranates.

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