Much has been made of Saskatoon’s new art gallery, the Remai Modern, and whether the city is trying to achieve the “Bilbao effect” right here on the prairies. I perhaps find myself in a relatively unique position of having lived in both Saskatoon and Bilbao for several years each. I also worked in the tourism industry in Bilbao, making me intimately acquainted with the sector’s strengths and weaknesses in the Basque city. On a recent weekend trip to Saskatoon, I had the opportunity to revisit some favourite haunts and explore the new Remai Modern (it hadn’t yet opened when I moved away) to decide for myself how Saskatoon measures up to Bilbao.
What is the Bilbao Effect?
The “Bilbao effect” refers to Bilbao’s transition from an industrial, quite polluted city, into a post-industrial beacon for visitors from around the world after the collapse of the shipbuilding industry. Where the Guggenheim Bilbao sits today was once shipbuilding yards. When the industry collapsed in the 80s, the government faced subsidizing an industry that found itself with a noose around its neck or reinventing the city into something new. They chose to breathe fresh life into Bilbao, and the Guggenheim was just one part of that plan. The success of this transition to a post-industrial hub for culture, art, and tourism has been a case study for struggling cities all over the world. Buyer beware, however, because the “Bilbao effect” has been successful primarily in Bilbao.
There's an Elephant in the Room
Before I begin, I must first point out that it is completely unfair, from various standpoints, to make a comparison between Bilbao and Saskatoon. Saskatoon can never hope to achieve the same success as Bilbao simply because of its geographic location. Bilbao is located in Spain near the north coast, and is easily accessible for many Europeans by short, inexpensive flights from various European capitals and major cities. It is 4-5 hours by bus from Madrid and cruise ships carrying thousands of passengers can easily transfer their clients to the city centre. Saskatoon does not benefit from the advantage of a dense population with easy access to the city, and this will always be a huge barrier to tourism in many parts of Canada.
In addition to its geographic location, one must also consider that the Guggenheim Bilbao was far more expensive than the Remai, and by purchasing the Guggenheim name, Bilbao received access to the first-class collection of the Guggenheim New York. It pays to have friends in high places.
The Remai Modern
The Building
I had never really been impressed by the design of the Remai Modern. Then again, the first time I saw the Guggenheim Bilbao, on a brief trip to the city in 2013, I didn’t much care for it either. Architecture, like art, is a matter of taste. The people of Bilbao weren’t exactly enthused by the titanium Frank Gehry design when it first opened in 1997 either, though it has since been deemed a masterpiece of 20th century architecture. Keep in mind, Gehry was competing with the Guggenheim New York, a world famous design by Frank Lloyd Wright. Much as a prominent Basque politician (I can’t quite recall who said it and my search is turning up empty) said about the Guggenheim, I like the Remai more each time I see it. It grows on you, and seeing a picture of it lit up at night makes me think that perhaps the twilight hours are when the KPMB design really comes to life. If Saskatoon hasn’t already embraced the award-winning design by a Canadian architectural firm, I think it will with time.
Upon entering the Remai, I was surprised by the light and airy luminosity of the foyer. The fireplace gives a homey feel to what might otherwise be a cold, nearly blank canvas. South Korean artist, Haegue Yang, created the papery-thin installation above, adding to the sense of lightness. It’s impressive without being uncomfortable, and this feeling continues throughout the gallery.
The Art
Art is a personal journey, and everyone responds to it in their own way. When it comes to art at the Guggenheim Bilbao, it’s hit and miss. If I’m being honest, most people come for the building, not the art. At the Remai, it was much the same. Some art resonated with me, some didn’t. I think that’s to be expected.
The Guggenheim Bilbao has the clout to get some of the biggest names in 19th, 20th, and 21st century art displayed within its walls. The Remai boasts a spectacular collection of Picasso linocuts, but aside from that, much of the art displayed is from local artists. That’s not a bad thing, as it supports artists in Canada and reminds us who we are and where we are. The Guggenheim Bilbao is American-centric: only two Basque artists are permanently displayed (Eduardo Chillida and Jorge Orteiza). If visitors to Bilbao want Spanish and Basque art, they have to walk five minutes to the Bilbao Fine Arts Museum. For many, this is a more enjoyable museum than the Guggenheim.
The Picassos at the Remai are probably the main draw to the museum. I recall going to the talk given by Frederick Mulder when he donated six Picasso linocuts to the University of Saskatchewan, and it was fantastic to have the opportunity to see more from the collection that was purchased for the gallery. I’m not Picasso’s biggest fan, but the collection at the Remai is impressive. Here is an article about the $20M collection. If the Picassos don’t draw people to the museum, what will? (Well, a Kusama or a Vasconcelos wouldn’t hurt, if I had to make a list of artists who draw a crowd).
A UNESCO World Heritage site?
Does Bilbao have a UNESCO World Heritage site? Yes, it does. It’s not located in the city centre, rather in the greater Bilbao area, but near the coast is a transporter bridge with World Heritage designation. The vast majority of visitors to Bilbao probably never see the bridge, their main destination being the Guggenheim.
Does Saskatoon have a UNESCO World Heritage site? Not yet, but probably most of us have our fingers crossed. Anybody who has ever taken an archaeology class at the U of S knows how significant Wanuskewin is (two U of S archaeology degrees later, I know this well!). Wanuskewin launched a bid for World Heritage status and was included in the tentative list of Canadian sites. The site was used for thousands of years by indigenous people because of its unique features. Tipi circles, a bison jump, and processing sites are located here in what has been described as a terrestrial island. As soon as you climb up onto the plains overlooking the South Saskatchewan River on a blustery day, you recognize the draw of the little valley that now rests quietly below Wanuskewin’s visitor centre. The additions to the building have maintained the style of the original construction, and this design manages to blend into its surroundings while captivating the eye with its unique cultural features.
I was excited to see the new bison at the park, but sadly, they were huddled up so far from the viewing platform you had to know they were bison to know they were bison, if you know what I mean. Still, the bison are symbolic, and bring renewed hope for the future of Wanuskewin.
A Journey to Foodieism
No, I did not just invent that word. I can say with certainty that Saskatoon started me on my journey to becoming a foodie, and Bilbao cemented this disease into my being. It might be overly dramatic to call it a disease, and there are some benefits to seeking out restaurants that are culinarily ambitious (mostly because the most creative ones are also local!), but it can result in pickiness. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t turn my nose up at McDonald’s, but these days I like to be more adventurous when it comes to food.
Bilbao is just over an hour away from foodie central, San Sebastián. The Basque Country is a hub for Michelin-star restaurants and Bilbao is no exception. The Guggenheim Bilbao is home to one of those restaurants with this prestigious designation. Thanks to a few awesome friends, I’ve eaten at two Bilbao Michelin-star restaurants. The truth is, though, when it comes to Bilbao, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get a fantastic meal. Culinary creativity is in the Basque blood.
Saskatoon may not have a Michelin star restaurant, but what it lacks in stars it makes up for in heart. A few years ago Vogue magazine listed Saskatoon and Winnipeg as must-visit destinations, speaking highly of the food scene in both cities. Sadly, the pandemic has taken its toll on local restaurants, but some are still going strong. Since my friend lives in Riversdale, it was easy to walk from her house to Hometown Diner. It was busy, so we left a name and moved on to OEB, also busy. In the end, we speed-walked back to Hometown for lunch. I had their Mediterranean bowl with falafel, tzatziki, fresh vegetables, and my favourite, Israeli couscous. I love Israeli couscous and was so happy to find it in Saskatoon. Strangely, one of the last meals I had in Bilbao happened also to be Israeli couscous.
The next day I met with another friend at tried and true Calories. Calories has been on the Saskatoon food scene for a long time, but there’s always something new to try. We were both intrigued by the brunch specials and ordered a Dutch Baby. Don’t worry, it’s not as cannibalistic as it sounds. I had never heard of the dish, but apparently it was invented in Seattle in the early 20th century. It was described as a cross between a pancake and a crepe, but a better description would be something akin to a soufflé or Yorkshire pudding (but sweet). It was topped with a red-wine-poached pear, maple syrup, candied pecans, and whipped cream. Sorry if I just made your mouth water a little.
Does Saskatoon Measure Up?
I happen to love both Saskatoon and Bilbao. The cities were backdrops to important stages of my life and are forever intertwined with my world view. They are very different cities, but have a great deal in common as you can see from my comparison. That being said, Saskatoon will never achieve the success Bilbao achieved in the tourism sector. Much of this has to do with location and density of population. However, in my mind, Saskatoon is on the right track to becoming a destination city – great food, an important heritage site, a Picasso collection worth millions and that’s not all I did in one weekend (more to come).
One of the benefits of Saskatoon staying small and somewhat under the radar is that it will not fall victim to its success as Bilbao had prior to the pandemic. What was once an unsaturated tourism market quickly became saturated as large companies diverted tours away from the capitals and into smaller cities. What did that mean for Bilbao? The Guggenheim got crowded, the old town got crowded, the restaurants got crowded, and the incredible culinary scene got watered down with a sudden influx of American chain restaurants (Carl’s Jr., Papa John’s, Five Guys, and the list goes on) that have no place in Bilbao or in most European cities, for that matter.
Saskatoon is resilient and transitioning rapidly into being a trendy city. Chain restaurants won’t crush our culture because they are part of our culture. Saskatoon has plenty to offer and people are just starting to realize that. The Remai only helps to add class to our image. Spots in Vogue give us credibility. Add in a few more successful touristic elements (yes, I always have ideas) to the mix and we might just have the winning combination, no “Bilbao effect” needed!
Note, for those that may be wondering, Destiny stayed in Regina with her babysitter that weekend. For places to visit in the Queen City, see my post about rediscovering Regina. Here is Destiny’s Halloween costume:
