Alpargatas (Spanish), also known as espadrilles (French), espardenyas (Catalan), and espartinak (Basque), are rope-soled shoes that have been worn in France and Spain for centuries. Once peasant shoes, they became fashionable in the 20th century and are now manufactured in many styles, colours, and materials. Even the biggest fashion houses make their own version of the alpargata.
You can still see folk dancers from the Basque Country and Catalonia wearing traditional versions of these shoes, but you will also see alpargatas worn as casual footwear on the fashion-forward streets of Madrid and Barcelona. The great thing about alpargatas is that they have been around so long, it’s hard for them to go out of style. In the major cities of Spain there is even a resurgence of their popularity, with new shops, selling nothing but alpargatas, springing up all over. Here is my short guide of things to know when shopping for alpargatas.
Where to Buy Alpargatas
The good news when it comes to alpargatas is that they are pretty ubiquitous these days. Most designers have a variation of the traditional shoe. Alpargatas range from very cheap to very expensive depending on the brand name stamped on the sole. If you are looking for an authentic alpargata, you may have to shop or order from France or Spain. I have been shopping for alpargatas for years while living in Spain. Here are my suggestions for where to buy your alpargatas, as I have shopped here myself!
Saint-Jean-de-Luz/Donibane Lohitzune, France
Saint-Jean-de-Luz/Donibane Lohitzune, a bustling fishing village turned tourist destination tucked away in the Basque Country on the French side of the Pyrenees, is a shoe-lover’s paradise. It may be small, but it has enough shoe shops to keep you occupied when you aren’t sampling the delicious Basque macarons, once served at Louis XIV’s wedding, or taking a dip in the sea.
I bought one pair of alpargatas, pictured above, on Rue Gambetta (the main shopping street), from Bayona – Espadrille Basque. This shop has a beautiful, vibrantly-coloured, selection of alpargatas in every style imaginable. I chose a small wedge with a navy and white striped canvas top. I almost bought more pairs, but I was worried about overweight luggage. These particular alpargatas are actually not from a Basque company, as the store’s name suggests, but from a Catalan company called Toni Pons. I fully admit this was not the last pair of Toni Pons alpargatas I purchased.
San Sebastián/Donostia, Basque Country, Spain
My journey with Toni Pons didn’t end in St-Jean-de-Luz. After that trip to the French Basque Country, when I purchased the navy and white alpargatas, I realized that there was a Toni Pons shop much closer to my home in Bilbao. On Calle Mayor, in San Sebastián, I bought a pair of yellow suede alpargata sandals, pictured below, to celebrate the last guided visit I gave in the city. I did, however, have to struggle to bring them back to Canada. I was definitely in possession of two overweight suitcases when I arrived at the airport.
Madrid, Spain
Madrid is a fantastic place to shop for alpargatas and is home to the most famous shop in the country. Or at least the shop that gets the most attention. Casa Hernanz, near the Plaza Mayor on Calle de Toledo is hard to miss during opening hours, as the line to get into the shop is very long! Casa Hernanz has been around since the mid-19th century and sells alpargatas handmade by the owners, as well as other brands of alpargatas. You can find very basic, very inexpensive alpargatas here, but there is also a lot of variety.
I bought three pairs of alpargatas at Casa Hernanz: a red lace-up wedge pair, pictured at the beginning of the article, a pair of black and white polka dot wedges, see below, and a pair of mustard-coloured sandals that I nearly forgot about, because I don’t have them in Canada with me (see photo of me wearing them at the archaeology museum in Athens). Funny story – I found the exact same sandals in a different colour at Winners in Saskatoon, Canada.
My tips for navigating this busy, but worth-a-visit shop? To avoid the line, show up about 15-20 minutes before the shop reopens after siesta, to be close to the front when they open their doors. If you don’t want to feel overwhelmed in the small space where the staff really hustle to serve you, then, before entering, choose the shoes you want to try on from the display in the window. They have most of the alpargatas on view, and it makes it easier for you and the staff if you go in knowing what you want.
To give you an idea of prices, the red alpargatas made at Casa Hernanz cost me 20 euros, and the polka dot alpargatas from another company were about 40 euros.
Alpargata Styles and Styling
Since becoming fashion footwear, the alpargata has seen a plethora of styles designed with the typical rope sole. Personally, I really like the flat, traditional look when it comes to alpargatas, especially when stripes give them a maritime feel. I once purchased a cute pair in blue floral from Alpargatus in Madrid, another shop specializing in rope-soled shoes. Unfortunately, I have never been able to find a good fit with the flat alpargatas (too small or too big), and these in particular ended up at the second hand shop.
When it comes to flat alpargatas, I now opt for sandals since they fit my feet a bit better. As you can see from my photos, I also love the wedge designs which can be open-toe or closed. My personal favourite is when they lace up, which can be at the ankle only (see my red pair), or in a very Basque style, they can lace up all the way from the toe.
I have also found that getting a good fit is easier with the strap around the back, rather than a closed back.
How to style your alpargatas? I generally think of alpargatas as a casual shoe that can be elevated depending on the clothes with which you pair them, but in most cases they aren’t appropriate for cocktail or formal events. I wear all my alpargatas with jeans – skinny jeans, ripped mom jeans, any jeans that show off the shoe work well. My alpargatas also pair well with dresses and skirts. Midi skirts and dresses are perfect with a wedge sole. I wear my yellow sandals frequently with a floral maxi dress that has yellow in the colour palette. Alpargatas are extremely versatile and go with just about everything, so you shouldn’t have any problems matching them to your outfit.
Shopping around, you will find an alpargata style to suit your taste, I’m sure. You can also find alpargata-inspired shoes everywhere. They aren’t quite the traditional, authentic rope-soled shoe of the Mediterranean, but they come close. See my Cole Haan alpargata-inspired wedges below. As you can see, there’s something for everyone in every colour of the rainbow!
Pingback: Hot Vintage Summer: Incorporating Retro Styles into Warm-Weather Wardrobes | Danee with Destiny
Love this. I never saw any flat ones. No heels for me. What size are your yellow one? I’d love those!!
There are lots of flat options, you’ll have to go back to San Sebastian and check the selection! My yellow ones are the last that I purchased before leaving, such a great colour!